Understanding Computer Components: A Beginner's Deep Dive Into How Your PC Works

Ever looked inside a computer and wondered what all those parts actually do? Maybe you've heard terms like "CPU" and "RAM" thrown around, but you're not quite sure what makes one better than another. Or perhaps you're thinking about building your first PC and feeling overwhelmed by all the choices.

You're in the right place! This guide breaks down every component in your computer in plain English, explaining not just what they do, but how they work and what to look for when choosing them.

No technical background needed - we'll start with the basics and build from there. By the end, you'll understand your computer better than most people and feel confident making informed decisions about hardware.

This guide is divided into multiple parts for easier reading:

Part 1: CPU and RAM (this page) - The brain and short-term memory
Part 2: Storage - Where your files live permanently
Part 3: Graphics Cards - Making things appear on your screen
Part 4: Motherboard and Power Supply - The foundation and power source
Part 5: Cases and Assembly - Putting it all together

Let's start with the two most important components: the CPU and RAM.

Part 1: The CPU and RAM - Your Computer's Brain and Memory

The Central Processing Unit (CPU): Your Computer's Brain

What It Actually Does

Think of the CPU (Central Processing Unit) as the brain of your computer. Every single thing your computer does - from opening a web browser to playing a game to calculating your taxes - goes through the CPU.

When you click your mouse, the CPU processes that click. When you type on your keyboard, the CPU registers each keystroke. When you play a video, the CPU coordinates getting that video from your hard drive to your screen.

Simple analogy: If your computer were a restaurant, the CPU would be the head chef. It takes orders (instructions from programs), prepares them (processes data), and serves the results (output to your screen or other components).

How It Works (The Simple Version)

You don't need to understand every detail, but here's the basic idea:

Inside the CPU are billions of tiny switches called transistors. These switches can be "on" or "off" - that's what creates the 1s and 0s you've heard about in binary code.

The CPU does the same thing over and over, billions of times per second:

Fetch: Grab an instruction ("open this file")
Decode: Figure out what that instruction means
Execute: Do the thing
Store: Save the result

Clock speed tells you how fast this happens. A 3.5 GHz CPU does this 3.5 billion times every second. That's why computers are fast!

But here's the catch: Higher numbers aren't always better. A newer CPU running at 3.5 GHz might be faster than an older CPU running at 4.0 GHz because it can do more work in each cycle. It's like comparing a modern car getting 30 MPG to an old car getting 25 MPG - the modern one has better efficiency, not just a bigger engine.

Cores: Multiple Brains Working Together

Modern CPUs have multiple "cores" - think of them as having multiple brains working at the same time.

Dual-core: 2 brains (older, budget computers)
Quad-core: 4 brains (common in mid-range)
6-core: 6 brains (great for most users)
8-core or more: 8+ brains (for heavy workloads)

Why this matters:

Imagine you're doing homework. With one brain (one core), you can only work on one subject at a time. With multiple brains (multiple cores), you can work on math, English, and science simultaneously.

Threads make this even better. Some CPUs can handle two tasks per core. A 6-core CPU with threading can handle 12 tasks at once (called "12 threads"). It's like being able to take notes while listening to a lecture.

Real-world examples:

Opening one program: 1 core is fine
Opening 10 programs at once: More cores help
Gaming: Usually uses 4-6 cores
Video editing: Uses ALL the cores you have

Cache: The CPU's Personal Notepad

CPUs have tiny bits of super-fast memory built right into the chip called "cache."

Think of it like this:

L1 cache: Like notes written on your hand - tiny amount, instantly accessible
L2 cache: Like a notepad in your pocket - a bit more, slightly slower to grab
L3 cache: Like a notebook in your backpack - largest, takes a moment to access

When the CPU needs data, it checks these caches first before going all the way to RAM (the computer's main memory). This speeds things up dramatically.

You don't usually need to worry about cache size - just know that more is generally better, but it's not the most important spec to focus on.

Choosing a CPU: What Actually Matters

Intel vs AMD - The Two Main Brands:

Think of this like choosing between two car brands - both make good products, just with different strengths.

Intel (Core i3, i5, i7, i9):

Generally better for pure gaming
Slightly higher prices
More familiar to most people
Works with most software without issues

AMD (Ryzen 3, 5, 7, 9):

Better value (more performance for your money)
Great for multitasking and creative work
Uses less power and runs cooler
Excellent choice for most people

Bottom line: Both are good! AMD usually gives you more for your money, while Intel has a slight edge in gaming. For most people, either will work great.

Understanding the Numbers:

When you see "Intel Core i7-13700K" or "AMD Ryzen 7 7700X," here's what it means:

Intel:

i3 = Budget (good for basic tasks)
i5 = Mid-range (perfect for most people)
i7 = High-end (gaming and creative work)
i9 = Extreme (professional work, serious gaming)

AMD:

Ryzen 3 = Budget
Ryzen 5 = Mid-range (sweet spot!)
Ryzen 7 = High-end
Ryzen 9 = Extreme

The numbers after (like 13700 or 7700) tell you the generation and model. Higher is newer/better.

Letters at the end:

K (Intel) or X (AMD) = Unlocked for overclocking (running faster than stock)
F (Intel) = No built-in graphics (needs separate graphics card)
G (AMD) = Has built-in graphics

What should YOU get?

Basic web browsing and documents: Intel i3 or AMD Ryzen 3
Gaming and general use: Intel i5 or AMD Ryzen 5 (best value!)
Streaming, video editing, heavy multitasking: Intel i7 or AMD Ryzen 7
Professional content creation: Intel i9 or AMD Ryzen 9

Heat and Power (TDP):

CPUs create heat. The TDP number (like 65W or 125W) tells you how much.

Lower TDP (65W): Runs cooler, easier to cool, uses less electricity
Higher TDP (125W+): Runs hotter, needs better cooling, more powerful

Think of it like a light bulb: A 100W bulb is brighter but hotter than a 60W bulb. Same with CPUs - more power often means more performance but more heat.

Socket Compatibility (Important!):

CPUs only fit specific motherboards. It's like how an iPhone charger won't fit an Android phone.

Intel uses LGA 1700 (current) or LGA 1200 (older)
AMD uses AM5 (current) or AM4 (older)

Make sure your motherboard matches your CPU socket! We'll talk more about this in the motherboard section.

Built-in Graphics:

Some CPUs have basic graphics built in (called integrated graphics or iGPU).

Pros:

Don't need to buy a separate graphics card
Saves money
Good for basic tasks and light gaming

Cons:

Not powerful enough for serious gaming
Uses some of your RAM

Who needs it:

Office work and web browsing: Yes, save the money!
Light gaming (Minecraft, older games): It'll work
Modern AAA gaming: You'll want a separate graphics card
Video editing: Separate graphics card helps a lot

RAM (Memory): Your Computer's Short-Term Memory

What It Actually Does

If the CPU is your brain, RAM (Random Access Memory) is your short-term memory.

Real-life analogy: Imagine you're working on a school project:

Your textbooks on the shelf are like your hard drive (permanent storage)
Your desk is like your RAM (working space)
You are the CPU (doing the work)

When you need information from a textbook, you bring it to your desk. The bigger your desk, the more books you can have open at once. RAM is that desk - it holds everything you're actively working on.

Why RAM is Different from Storage

Important to understand:

Storage (Hard drive/SSD): Permanent, like a filing cabinet. Keeps files even when powered off.
RAM: Temporary, like your desk. Forgets everything when you turn off the computer.

Example:

You open Microsoft Word (program loads from storage into RAM)
You type a document (it exists only in RAM)
You click "Save" (document copies from RAM to storage)
You close Word (RAM clears, but file stays on storage)

If your computer crashes before you save, you lose your work because it was only in RAM!

How Much RAM Do You Need?

This is one of the most common questions, and the answer is simple:

4GB: Barely enough for basic web browsing (not recommended anymore)
8GB: Minimum for casual use, light gaming, budget computers
16GB: Sweet spot for most people - gaming, multitasking, general use
32GB: Content creation, heavy multitasking, future-proofing
64GB+: Professional video editing, 3D rendering, running virtual machines

Real-world examples:

8GB can handle:

Web browsing with 10-15 tabs
Microsoft Office applications
Streaming Netflix
Light gaming (Minecraft, older games)

16GB can handle:

Web browsing with 30+ tabs
Gaming modern titles comfortably
Light photo editing
Multiple programs open simultaneously

32GB can handle:

Serious video editing
3D modeling and rendering
Running virtual machines
Heavy multitasking (gaming while streaming)
Future-proofing for years

Can you have too much? Not really - extra RAM just sits unused. But it's wasteful to buy 64GB if you only browse the web. Start with 16GB; you can always add more later!

RAM Speed: Does It Matter?

RAM has speed ratings like "DDR4-3200" or "DDR5-6000."

What the numbers mean:

DDR4/DDR5: The generation (like USB 2.0 vs USB 3.0)
3200/6000: How fast data transfers (higher = faster)

Honest truth for beginners:

RAM speed matters a bit, but not as much as amount
Don't stress over getting the absolute fastest
Stick to these guidelines:

For Intel systems:

DDR4-3200 is perfectly fine
DDR5-5600 if you have a newer motherboard
Faster speeds help a little, but don't overspend

For AMD systems:

DDR4-3600 is ideal for Ryzen 5000
DDR5-6000 is ideal for Ryzen 7000
AMD benefits more from faster RAM than Intel does

Most important rule: Get the amount you need first, then worry about speed.

Dual Channel: A Simple Trick for Better Performance

Here's a free performance boost: Always buy RAM in pairs!

Two 8GB sticks is MUCH better than one 16GB stick
Two 16GB sticks is better than one 32GB stick

Why? The CPU can read from both sticks simultaneously, doubling the speed.

Motherboards have RAM slots labeled: Use slots 2 and 4 (check your motherboard manual, but this is typical). This enables "dual channel" mode.

Example:

Want 16GB total? Buy 2x8GB sticks
Want 32GB total? Buy 2x16GB sticks

DDR4 vs DDR5: Which Should You Get?

This is like choosing between an older and newer phone model.

DDR4 (Older):

Cheaper
Widely available
Works with most motherboards
Perfectly fine for gaming and general use

DDR5 (Newer):

Faster
More expensive
Only works with newest motherboards (Intel 12th gen+, AMD Ryzen 7000+)
Better for future-proofing

Which should you choose?

If building a new computer in 2024+: Get DDR5 if budget allows If upgrading an existing computer: You're stuck with whatever your motherboard supports If budget is tight: DDR4 is still excellent

Bottom line: DDR4 isn't "bad" just because DDR5 exists. It's like how a 2-year-old phone still works great even though newer models exist.

Choosing RAM: What to Look For

Capacity first, speed second:

Decide how much you need (16GB for most people)
Make sure it's the right type for your motherboard (DDR4 vs DDR5)
Buy two sticks instead of one (dual channel)
Get decent speed (DDR4-3200 or DDR5-6000)
Check motherboard compatibility

Brand names: All these brands make good RAM:

Corsair
G.Skill
Crucial
Kingston
Team Group

Honestly, they're all reliable. Pick based on price and looks (if you care about RGB lighting).

Heat spreaders and RGB lighting:

Those metal covers (heat spreaders) look cool but only matter for high-speed RAM
RGB lighting is purely cosmetic - makes your RAM glow pretty colors
Neither affects performance for normal speeds
Buy them if you like the look, skip them if you don't care

What about timings (CL16, CL18)?

You might see specs like "DDR4-3200 CL16" - the CL number is latency.

Beginner's guide: Lower is technically better, but the difference is tiny (1-2% performance). Don't stress about it. If you see two kits at the same price and one has lower CL, get that one. Otherwise, ignore it.

Common RAM Questions

Q: Can I mix different RAM sticks? A: Technically yes, but not recommended. They'll all run at the speed of the slowest stick, and you might have stability issues. Best to buy matching kits.

Q: Can I add more RAM later? A: Usually yes! Just make sure you have empty slots on your motherboard and buy the same type (DDR4 or DDR5).

Q: Will more RAM make my computer faster? A: Only if you were running out! Adding more when you already have enough won't help. It's like buying a bigger desk when your current desk isn't full - nice to have, but doesn't make you work faster.

Q: Why did my 16GB RAM show up as 15.9GB? A: Totally normal! The "missing" RAM is reserved for system functions. Your computer needs some RAM just to run the operating system.

Q: Is 8GB really not enough anymore? A: For basic use, it's okay. But modern games and creative apps really want 16GB. Think of 8GB as "minimum" and 16GB as "comfortable."

Quick Summary: CPU and RAM

CPU (Processor):

The brain of your computer
More cores = better multitasking
Intel and AMD both make excellent CPUs
Intel i5 or AMD Ryzen 5 is the sweet spot for most people
Don't just look at GHz - newer architecture matters more
Make sure it matches your motherboard socket

RAM (Memory):

Your computer's working space
16GB is the sweet spot for most users
Always buy two sticks (dual channel)
Amount matters more than speed for beginners
DDR4 vs DDR5 depends on your motherboard
You can usually add more later

Ready to learn about storage?

Continue to Part 2: Storage - SSDs and HDDs →

In Part 2, we'll explore where your files actually live, why SSDs are way faster than old hard drives, and how much storage you really need.

Part 2: Storage - Where Your Files Live

[Previous: Part 1 - CPU and RAM]

Understanding Storage: The Basics

Remember how we said RAM is like your desk (temporary workspace) and storage is like your filing cabinet (permanent)? Let's dive deeper into that filing cabinet.

Storage is where everything lives permanently:

Your operating system (Windows, macOS, Linux)
All your programs and apps
Your photos, videos, and music
Your documents and files
Game installations
Everything you want to keep

Unlike RAM, storage keeps your data even when the computer is off. Turn your computer on next week, and all your files are still there.

There are two main types of storage: HDDs (the older mechanical drives) and SSDs (the newer, faster drives). Let's break down both.

Hard Disk Drives (HDDs): The Old Reliable

What They Are

HDDs (Hard Disk Drives) have been around since the 1950s. They're mechanical devices - they have actual moving parts inside!

How They Work (Simple Explanation)

Imagine a record player:

Spinning platters (like records) coated in magnetic material
Read/write head (like the record player's needle) that hovers above the platter
The head reads and writes data by magnetizing tiny spots on the platter

The platter spins at 5,400 or 7,200 times per minute (RPM). When you open a file, the head physically moves to the right spot on the spinning platter to read it.

Why they're slow:

Physical movement takes time! The drive has to:

Spin the platter to the right position
Move the head to the right track
Wait for the data to rotate underneath

This takes a few milliseconds - sounds fast, but computers think in nanoseconds (billionths of a second). That delay is why HDDs feel sluggish compared to SSDs.

Pros and Cons of HDDs

Pros (Why you might still want one):

Cheap: $15-20 per terabyte
Large capacities: 8TB, 12TB, even 20TB drives available
Good for bulk storage: Perfect for movies, photos, backups
Long lifespan: Can last 5+ years with proper care

Cons (Why they're being replaced):

Slow: Takes time to find and load files
Fragile: Moving parts can break if dropped
Noisy: You can hear them spinning and clicking
Uses more power: Spinning motors need electricity

When to use an HDD:

Storing large video libraries
Backup drives
Extra storage when you need lots of space cheap
Files you access rarely

When NOT to use an HDD:

Your operating system (Windows/macOS) - this should always be on SSD
Programs and games - SSD makes them load WAY faster
If you value silence - HDDs are audible

Solid State Drives (SSDs): The Modern Standard

What They Are

SSDs (Solid State Drives) have no moving parts. They store data electronically on memory chips, similar to a giant, permanent USB drive.

How They Work (Simple Explanation)

Think of SSDs like a huge grid of light switches:

Each switch can be "on" or "off" (storing a 1 or 0)
The computer can flip any switch instantly
No spinning, no moving parts, just electricity

Because there's no physical movement, SSDs can access any file almost instantly.

Types of SSD memory (don't stress over this):

SLC: Most expensive, most durable (used in servers)
MLC: Good balance (older consumer drives)
TLC: Standard today (good performance, affordable)
QLC: Cheapest, slowest SSD type (still faster than HDD)

For beginners: TLC is what most good consumer SSDs use. That's perfectly fine!

Pros and Cons of SSDs

Pros (Why everyone loves them):

FAST: 10-100x faster than HDDs
Silent: No moving parts = no noise
Durable: Can handle drops and bumps better
Energy efficient: Uses less power, better for laptops
Small: Can be the size of a stick of gum

Cons (The trade-offs):

More expensive: $50-80 per terabyte (3-4x more than HDD)
Smaller capacities: 500GB-2TB is common for affordable drives
Limited writes: Each cell can only be written to so many times (but don't worry - this takes years)

When to use an SSD:

Always use for: Your operating system (Windows/macOS)
Highly recommended for: Your most-played games
Great for: Programs you use daily
Worth it for: Files you access frequently

The life expectancy concern:

You might hear "SSDs wear out." This is technically true but practically irrelevant for most users.

How it works: Each memory cell can be written to about 1,000-3,000 times before it fails. Sounds scary, but:

Modern SSDs spread writes evenly across all cells (called "wear leveling")
Average user writes 10-20GB per day
At that rate, a 500GB SSD lasts 10-20+ years
You'll upgrade long before it wears out

Bottom line: Don't worry about SSD lifespan. It's like worrying your car will hit 500,000 miles - possible, but you'll probably replace it first.

SSD Form Factors: SATA vs M.2 NVMe

This confuses a lot of beginners, so let's make it simple:

SSDs come in different shapes and connect differently to your motherboard.

SATA SSDs (2.5" drives):

Look like small, flat rectangular boxes (size of a phone)
Connect with cables (just like old HDDs)
Maximum speed: about 550 MB/s
Pros: Cheaper, work in any computer, easy to install
Cons: Slower than NVMe, requires cables

M.2 NVMe SSDs:

Look like a stick of gum
Plug directly into motherboard (no cables!)
Speed: 3,000-7,000 MB/s (5-12x faster than SATA!)
Pros: Super fast, tiny, no cables needed
Cons: More expensive, requires M.2 slot on motherboard

Which should you get?

For most people building a modern PC: M.2 NVMe

Motherboards almost always have M.2 slots now
The speed difference feels good for booting and loading
Cleaner build (no cables)

For upgrading an older computer: Check what you have

If you have M.2 slots: Get NVMe
If you don't: SATA SSD is still a MASSIVE upgrade from HDD

Do you need the fastest NVMe drive?

Honestly? Probably not. Here's the truth:

PCIe 3.0 NVMe (3,500 MB/s): Perfect for gaming and general use PCIe 4.0 NVMe (7,000 MB/s): Barely faster in real-world use, costs more PCIe 5.0 NVMe (14,000 MB/s): Cutting edge, very expensive, overkill for almost everyone

For gaming: PCIe 3.0 and 4.0 load games within 1-2 seconds of each other For daily use: You won't notice the difference

Where fast NVMe matters:

Transferring huge video files constantly
Professional 4K/8K video editing
Working with massive databases

Bottom line: Get a good PCIe 3.0 or 4.0 NVMe drive. Don't overpay for PCIe 5.0 unless you have a specific professional need.

How Much Storage Do You Need?

This is highly personal, but here's a guide:

250GB:

Bare minimum
OS + a few programs
Not recommended unless extreme budget

500GB:

Comfortable for OS and programs
Room for 3-5 modern games
Good starting point

1TB:

Sweet spot for most people!
OS, programs, and 8-10 modern games
Room for files
Best value

2TB:

Lots of games and programs
Good for content creators
Comfortable future-proofing

4TB+:

Large game library
Video editing
Photo/video storage
Professional use

Modern game sizes (to give you perspective):

Call of Duty: 150-200GB (!!)
Cyberpunk 2077: 70GB
Elden Ring: 60GB
Minecraft: 1GB
Indie games: 1-20GB

One Call of Duty can eat 1/3 of a 500GB drive!

The Best Setup: SSD + HDD Combo

Most people benefit from this combination:

Primary drive (SSD):

500GB or 1TB NVMe SSD
Install Windows/macOS here
Install your most-played games and programs
Fast boot times, snappy performance

Secondary drive (HDD):

2TB or 4TB HDD
Store movies, music, photos
Games you play rarely
Backups
Cheap bulk storage

Why this works:

You get speed where it matters (OS, active programs)
You get cheap storage for stuff you don't need fast
Best of both worlds

Example budget:

500GB NVMe SSD: $40-50
2TB HDD: $50-60
Total: $90-110 for 2.5TB storage

vs all-SSD:

2TB NVMe SSD: $120-150
More expensive, less total storage, but everything is fast

Which is better? Depends on your needs:

Lots of games/media? SSD + HDD
Smaller library, want silence? All-SSD
Video editor? All-SSD for better performance

Brand Recommendations (Simple Guide)

Premium tier (You're paying for the best):

Samsung 980 Pro / 990 Pro
WD Black SN850X
Seagate FireCuda 530

Value tier (Best bang for buck):

WD Blue SN580
Crucial P3/P5
Samsung 980 (not Pro)
Team MP33

Budget tier:

Kingston NV2
Crucial BX500 (SATA)
WD Blue (SATA)

For HDDs:

WD Blue (reliable, quiet)
Seagate Barracuda (good value)
Avoid: No-name brands

Honest advice: Stick with known brands (Samsung, WD, Crucial, Kingston). Read recent reviews. The difference between "best" and "good enough" is often negligible for regular users.

Quick Decision Guide

Answer these questions:

Is this for your operating system?
- Yes → Get an SSD (preferably NVMe)
Do you have an M.2 slot on your motherboard?
- Yes → Get M.2 NVMe
- No → Get 2.5" SATA SSD
How much storage total do you need?
- Under 1TB → One SSD is fine
- 1-3TB → Consider SSD + HDD combo
- Over 3TB → Definitely add an HDD
What's your budget?
- Tight → 500GB SSD + 1-2TB HDD
- Moderate → 1TB SSD + optional HDD
- Comfortable → 1-2TB SSD, add HDD if needed

Storage Myths Debunked

Myth: "SSDs are unreliable and die quickly"

False! Modern SSDs are very reliable and last years

Myth: "You need to defragment SSDs"

Never defragment an SSD! It wears them out and provides no benefit

Myth: "Faster storage makes games run at higher FPS"

False! Storage affects loading times, not frame rates

Myth: "Filling an SSD to 100% is fine"

Leave 10-20% free for best performance and longevity

Myth: "All NVMe drives are the same"

Some are much faster than others - check reviews!

Summary: Storage

Key takeaways:

SSD for OS and programs: This is non-negotiable for good performance
HDD for bulk storage: Great for movies, backups, rarely-accessed files
500GB-1TB SSD is the sweet spot for most people
M.2 NVMe if your motherboard supports it
Don't need the absolute fastest - mid-range NVMe is perfect
Combo approach (SSD + HDD) offers best value

Continue to Part 3: Graphics Cards (GPUs) →

In Part 3, we'll explore graphics cards - what makes games look pretty, when you need one, and how to choose between the many options.

Part 3: Graphics Cards (GPUs) - Bringing Visuals to Life

[Previous: Part 2 - Storage]

What is a Graphics Card?

The GPU (Graphics Processing Unit), also called a graphics card or video card, is responsible for everything you see on your screen. It creates the images, handles video playback, and renders those beautiful 3D game worlds.

Think of it like this: If the CPU is the brain that makes decisions, the GPU is the artist that draws everything you see.

Do You Even Need a Graphics Card?

This is the first question to answer, because not everyone needs one!

You DON'T need a dedicated graphics card if you:

Only browse the web, check email, and use Office programs
Watch YouTube and Netflix
Do basic photo editing
Play simple games (Minecraft at low settings, browser games)

Why? Many CPUs have "integrated graphics" built right in. They're not powerful, but they're free and handle basic tasks fine.

You DO need a dedicated graphics card if you:

Want to play modern games
Do video editing or 3D modeling
Want high resolution or high frame rates
Use programs that need GPU acceleration (Photoshop, Blender, etc.)
Want to use multiple monitors (though some integrated graphics can do this too)

How Graphics Cards Work (Simplified)

Here's what makes GPUs special:

CPUs are great at doing complex tasks one at a time. They're like a master chef - skilled at many different things.

GPUs are great at doing simple tasks thousands of times at once. They're like a factory assembly line - each worker does one simple job, but there are thousands of workers.

Why this matters for graphics:

When you're playing a game in 1080p (1920x1080), the GPU needs to calculate what to show for over 2 million pixels - and it does this 60+ times per second!

Each pixel needs:

Position calculation
Color determination
Lighting effects
Texture application
Shadow rendering

The GPU has thousands of tiny cores that each work on different pixels simultaneously. This is called "parallel processing," and it's why GPUs are so much better at graphics than CPUs.

Understanding GPU Specs: What Actually Matters

VRAM (Video Memory):

This is like RAM, but specifically for the graphics card. It stores textures, game assets, and frame data.

How much you need:

4-6GB: Bare minimum for 1080p gaming
8GB: Comfortable for 1080p, okay for 1440p
12GB: Great for 1440p, good for 4K
16GB+: 4K gaming, professional work, future-proofing

Real examples:

Playing Fortnite at 1080p: 4-6GB is fine
Playing Cyberpunk 2077 at 1440p with ray tracing: Needs 10-12GB
Video editing 4K footage: 10-16GB recommended

More VRAM doesn't always mean better performance - it just means the card can handle higher resolutions and more detailed textures without running out of memory.

Clock Speed:

Like CPUs, GPUs have clock speeds measured in MHz or GHz. Higher is generally faster, but it's not the only factor.

Beginners: Don't obsess over clock speeds. Focus on the overall GPU model instead.

CUDA Cores (NVIDIA) or Stream Processors (AMD):

These are the thousands of tiny cores doing the actual work.

More cores = better performance (usually)
But newer cores are more efficient than old cores
A new GPU with 3,000 cores can beat an old GPU with 5,000 cores

Again, don't stress over counting cores. Look at benchmarks and reviews instead.

Ray Tracing:

This is a newer technology that makes lighting look incredibly realistic.

Traditional rendering: Fakes lighting with clever tricks (fast but less realistic) Ray tracing: Actually simulates light rays bouncing around (slower but gorgeous)

Modern high-end cards have special hardware for ray tracing:

NVIDIA: "RT Cores"
AMD: "Ray Accelerators"

Do you need it?

Not essential, but nice to have
Makes games look amazing if they support it
Costs performance (lower frame rates)
More important for single-player story games than competitive gaming

DLSS (NVIDIA) and FSR (AMD):

These are technologies that use AI to make games run faster while still looking good.

How it works (simplified):

Game renders at a lower resolution (like 1080p)
AI upscales it to higher resolution (like 1440p or 4K)
You get better performance with minimal visual loss

DLSS (NVIDIA only): Generally better quality, only works on NVIDIA cards FSR (AMD, works on most cards): Good quality, works on more GPUs including older ones

Think of it like: Compression for a photo. Done well, the file is smaller (faster) but looks nearly identical.

NVIDIA vs AMD: The Two Main Brands

Just like Intel vs AMD for CPUs, there are two main GPU manufacturers.

NVIDIA (GeForce RTX):

Strengths:

Better ray tracing performance
DLSS is superior to AMD's FSR
Better software for content creators (CUDA support)
More mature drivers (fewer bugs)
Better at 1440p and 4K gaming

Weaknesses:

More expensive
Higher power consumption
Sometimes overpriced for the performance

Best for:

If you want the best ray tracing
Content creation (video editing, 3D work)
High-resolution gaming (1440p, 4K)
Streaming (NVENC encoder is excellent)

AMD (Radeon RX):

Strengths:

Better value (more performance per dollar)
Excellent at 1080p and 1440p without ray tracing
More VRAM for the money
Lower prices
Good power efficiency on newer cards

Weaknesses:

Ray tracing lags behind NVIDIA
FSR isn't quite as good as DLSS
Sometimes has driver issues
Less software support for professional work

Best for:

Budget and mid-range builds
1080p and 1440p gaming
If you don't care about ray tracing
Value-conscious buyers

Which should YOU choose?

Go NVIDIA if:

You want the absolute best performance
Ray tracing matters to you
You do video editing or 3D work
Budget isn't your main concern

Go AMD if:

You want better value
Playing at 1080p or 1440p
Ray tracing isn't important
You're on a tighter budget

Honest truth: Both make excellent cards! AMD gives you more for your money, NVIDIA gives you the latest features. Either will make you happy.

Understanding GPU Model Numbers

NVIDIA naming (RTX 4000 series example):

RTX 4060

4 = Generation (4000 series, newer is better)
0 = Tier within generation
- 90 = Top-tier (most expensive, most powerful)
- 80 = High-end
- 70 = Upper mid-range
- 60 = Mid-range (sweet spot!)
- 50 = Budget
Ti = "Titanium," a slightly better version
Super = Refreshed, improved version

AMD naming (RX 7000 series example):

RX 7800 XT

7 = Generation (7000 series)
800 = Performance tier
- 900 = Top-tier
- 800 = High-end
- 700 = Upper mid-range
- 600 = Mid-range
XT = Higher-performance variant
XTX = Even higher performance

What GPU Do You Actually Need?

Let's make this super practical based on what you want to do:

1080p Gaming (1920x1080):

Budget ($200-300):

NVIDIA RTX 4060
AMD RX 6600 / RX 6650 XT
You get: 60+ fps in most games at high settings

Mid-range ($300-400):

NVIDIA RTX 4060 Ti
AMD RX 7600 XT
You get: 100+ fps in competitive games, 60fps in demanding titles at ultra settings

What games run at 1080p:

Fortnite: 120+ fps
Valorant: 200+ fps
Cyberpunk 2077: 60+ fps at high settings
Any older game: Maxed out

1440p Gaming (2560x1440):

Mid-range ($400-500):

AMD RX 7700 XT
NVIDIA RTX 4060 Ti 16GB
You get: 60+ fps in most games at high settings

High-end ($500-700):

AMD RX 7800 XT (best value!)
NVIDIA RTX 4070
You get: 80-100+ fps in most games, comfortable high-refresh gaming

What games run at 1440p:

Competitive games: 144+ fps
AAA games (Elden Ring, RDR2): 60-80 fps at high/ultra
Ray tracing games: 60fps with DLSS/FSR

4K Gaming (3840x2160):

High-end ($700-900):

AMD RX 7900 XT
NVIDIA RTX 4070 Ti
You get: 60fps in most games at high settings

Extreme ($1000+):

NVIDIA RTX 4080
NVIDIA RTX 4090 (if money is no object)
AMD RX 7900 XTX
You get: 60+ fps in everything, ray tracing at playable frame rates

Content Creation:

Video Editing:

NVIDIA cards generally better (CUDA acceleration)
12GB+ VRAM recommended
RTX 4060 Ti 16GB or better

3D Rendering:

More VRAM = better (handles complex scenes)
NVIDIA CUDA helps in Blender, Maya
AMD works too but check software compatibility

Photo Editing:

Any modern GPU helps
8GB+ VRAM comfortable

Power Consumption and Cooling

Graphics cards use a LOT of power and create a lot of heat.

Power requirements:

Budget cards (RTX 4060, RX 7600):

150-180 watts
Need 500-550W power supply

Mid-range (RTX 4070, RX 7800 XT):

200-300 watts
Need 650-750W power supply

High-end (RTX 4080, RX 7900 XT):

300-350 watts
Need 750-850W power supply

Extreme (RTX 4090):

450 watts (!!)
Need 850-1000W power supply

Always check: The GPU manufacturer's recommended PSU wattage.

Cooling:

Modern GPUs come with built-in cooling:

2-fan cards:

Smaller, cheaper
Can fit in smaller cases
Good enough for budget/mid-range cards

3-fan cards:

Larger, cooler, quieter
Standard for high-end cards
Need bigger cases

Important: Make sure the GPU physically fits in your case! Measure before buying.

Budget cards: Usually under 250mm
Mid-range: 280-320mm
High-end: 300-360mm

Check your case specs for "maximum GPU length."

Brand Confusion: GPU Chips vs Card Manufacturers

This confuses EVERYONE at first!

Here's what's happening:

NVIDIA and AMD make the actual GPU chips (like the RTX 4070 chip or RX 7800 XT chip).

Other companies (ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, EVGA, etc.) buy these chips and build complete graphics cards around them.

Example:

The RTX 4070 is NVIDIA's chip design
ASUS RTX 4070 TUF Gaming is ASUS's version
MSI RTX 4070 Gaming X Trio is MSI's version
Gigabyte RTX 4070 Eagle is Gigabyte's version

They all use the same RTX 4070 chip! The difference is:

Cooling design (some are cooler/quieter)
Factory overclocking (some run slightly faster)
Build quality
Aesthetics (RGB lighting, colors)
Price

Performance difference: Usually only 3-5% between worst and best versions of the same GPU chip.

Which brand should you choose?

All these are reputable:

ASUS (premium, good quality)
MSI (reliable, good value)
Gigabyte (good budget options)
EVGA (sadly exiting GPU market)
Sapphire (AMD only, excellent)
PowerColor (AMD only, good value)
Zotac (budget-friendly)

Avoid: Unknown Chinese brands, used mining cards

Pick based on:

Price (they're all similar performance)
Which fits your case (check dimensions)
Cooling reviews (some are quieter than others)
Looks (if you care about RGB and aesthetics)

Common Beginner Questions

Q: Can I use an AMD GPU with an Intel CPU? A: Absolutely! Mix and match however you want. AMD GPU works fine with Intel CPU and vice versa.

Q: Do I need to buy extra cables for my GPU? A: No, your power supply includes the necessary PCIe power cables.

Q: How often should I upgrade my GPU? A: Every 3-5 years if you want to stay current. Many people go 5-7 years if they're happy with performance.

Q: Can I use two GPUs? A: Technically yes (called SLI or Crossfire), but it's dying tech. Not worth it anymore. Buy one better GPU instead.

Q: What's the difference between "OC" and regular versions? A: "OC" means factory overclocked - runs slightly faster out of the box. Usually 3-5% better performance for 5-10% more money. Not essential.

Q: Will a GPU from 2020 work in a 2024 computer? A: Yes! GPUs are backward compatible with PCIe slots for many generations.

Q: Do I need to install drivers? A: Yes! After installing your GPU, download the latest drivers from NVIDIA or AMD's website. This is important for performance and stability.

Q: Can I play games without a GPU? A: On integrated graphics, yes - but only older or simpler games. Modern AAA titles need a dedicated GPU.

Making Your Decision: Simple Flowchart

What resolution is your monitor?

1080p:

Budget gaming → RTX 4060 or RX 6600
High-refresh competitive → RTX 4060 Ti or RX 7600 XT

1440p:

Good experience → RX 7800 XT (best value!)
Premium experience → RTX 4070

4K:

Minimum → RTX 4070 Ti or RX 7900 XT
Best → RTX 4080 or RTX 4090

Content creation:

Video editing → RTX 4060 Ti 16GB or better
3D rendering → As much VRAM as you can afford

Budget focused:

AMD generally gives more performance per dollar
Look at previous generation cards (RTX 3000, RX 6000) for deals

GPU Shopping Tips

Where to buy:

Newegg, Amazon, Best Buy (reputable retailers)
Manufacturer websites (sometimes have deals)
Local Micro Center (if you have one nearby)

When to buy:

New generation launches: Previous gen gets discounted
Black Friday / Cyber Monday
Prime Day
Avoid: Crypto booms (prices skyrocket)

What to watch for:

Warranty: Should be 2-3 years minimum
Return policy: 30 days at least
Stock photos vs actual card: Make sure you're buying what you think
Bundle deals: Sometimes CPU+GPU bundles save money

Red flags:

Price too good to be true (might be used mining card)
No warranty
Shipped from overseas (long waits, import fees)
"Refurbished" cards under 1 year old (probably mining cards)

Summary: Graphics Cards

Key takeaways:

Not everyone needs one - integrated graphics work for basic tasks
VRAM matters - Match it to your resolution
NVIDIA vs AMD - Both are good, AMD is usually better value
Buy for your monitor - No point buying 4K card for 1080p monitor
PSU requirements - Don't forget to check your power supply
Size matters - Make sure it fits your case
Different brands, same chip - Don't stress over ASUS vs MSI too much

The sweet spots:

1080p: RTX 4060 or RX 7600
1440p: RX 7800 XT (best value) or RTX 4070
4K: RTX 4080 or RX 7900 XTX

Continue to Part 4: Motherboard and Power Supply →

In Part 4, we'll explore the motherboard (what connects everything together) and the power supply (what keeps it all running). These might seem boring, but choosing them wrong can cause big headaches!

Part 4: Motherboard and Power Supply - The Foundation and Power Source

[Previous: Part 3 - Graphics Cards]

The Motherboard: Your Computer's Nervous System

What It Actually Does

If we're sticking with the body analogy, the motherboard is like your nervous system - it connects everything and allows all the parts to communicate.

The motherboard is a large circuit board that:

Holds your CPU
Provides slots for RAM
Has slots for your GPU and other expansion cards
Connects your storage drives
Provides USB ports, audio jacks, and network connections
Distributes power from the PSU to all components

Important to understand: The motherboard itself doesn't make your computer faster or slower. It's not a performance component. Instead, it determines:

What parts are compatible (which CPUs, which RAM type)
What features you have (WiFi, number of USB ports, etc.)
How easy your build will be (layout, quality of life features)
Future upgrade options (extra RAM slots, M.2 slots, etc.)

Think of it like a foundation for a house - it doesn't make the house prettier or more comfortable, but it determines what you can build on it.

Motherboard Size: Form Factors

Motherboards come in different sizes. Pick based on your case size and how many expansion slots you need.

ATX (Full Size):

Size: 12" x 9.6" (305mm x 244mm)
Pros: Most expansion slots, most features, lots of room to work
Cons: Needs larger case
Best for: Standard builds, people who want expansion options
Typical features: 4 RAM slots, 3-4 PCIe slots, 4-6 M.2 slots

Micro-ATX (Smaller):

Size: 9.6" x 9.6" (244mm x 244mm)
Pros: More compact, usually cheaper, fits smaller cases
Cons: Fewer expansion slots
Best for: Budget builds, compact builds
Typical features: 4 RAM slots, 2-3 PCIe slots, 2-3 M.2 slots

Mini-ITX (Smallest):

Size: 6.7" x 6.7" (170mm x 170mm)
Pros: Very compact, great for tiny builds
Cons: Limited expansion (usually just one PCIe slot), fewer features, often more expensive
Best for: Small form factor builds, HTPCs, portable gaming PCs
Typical features: 2 RAM slots, 1 PCIe slot, 1-2 M.2 slots

Which should you choose?

Go ATX if:

Building a standard desktop
Want maximum flexibility
Might add more components later
Have a mid-tower or full-tower case

Go Micro-ATX if:

Want to save some money
Building a more compact PC
Don't need many expansion slots
Good middle ground

Go Mini-ITX if:

Building a small form factor PC
Space is limited
Want a portable gaming rig
Don't mind the premium price

For most beginners: ATX or Micro-ATX. Save Mini-ITX for when you're comfortable with PC building - they can be tricky!

Understanding Chipsets: The Brain of the Motherboard

The chipset is a chip on the motherboard that manages communication between components. It's made by Intel or AMD (matching your CPU brand).

Why chipsets matter:

They determine which features your motherboard can have
They limit how many USB ports, SATA ports, and PCIe lanes you get
Some allow CPU overclocking, others don't
Higher-tier chipsets cost more but offer more features

For Intel (12th, 13th, 14th gen):

Z790 (High-end):

Allows CPU overclocking (K-series CPUs)
Most PCIe lanes and features
Most expensive
Best for: Enthusiasts, overclockers, those who want all the features

B760 (Mid-range):

No CPU overclocking (fine for most people!)
Good features, plenty for most users
Best value
Best for: 90% of users - gaming, content creation, general use

H770 (Between B and Z):

More features than B760
Still no overclocking
Less common, not usually worth the premium over B760

H610 (Budget):

Minimal features
Limited expansion
Best for: Basic office PCs only

For AMD (Ryzen 7000):

X670E / X670 (High-end):

Full features, PCIe 5.0 support
CPU and RAM overclocking supported
Most expensive
Best for: Enthusiasts who want cutting-edge features

B650E / B650 (Mid-range):

Great features, some PCIe 5.0 (E variant has more)
CPU and RAM overclocking supported (yes, even on B-series!)
Excellent value
Best for: Most users - this is the sweet spot

A620 (Budget):

Basic features
Limited overclocking
Best for: Budget builds only

Beginner's guide to chipset choice:

For Intel:

Want to overclock your CPU? → Z790
Everyone else → B760 (best value!)
Super tight budget → H610

For AMD:

Want PCIe 5.0 and all features → X670E
Most people → B650 (excellent value, can still overclock!)
Budget → A620

Truth bomb: Most people will never notice the difference between B-series and Z/X-series chipsets. The B-series boards have plenty of features for gaming and content creation.

Key Motherboard Features to Consider

RAM Slots:

Most motherboards have 4 slots (good for dual-channel, room to expand).

Make sure it supports your RAM type: DDR4 vs DDR5
Check max capacity: Usually 64GB or 128GB
Check max speed: Better boards support faster RAM

M.2 Slots (for NVMe SSDs):

More slots = more storage without cables!

Budget boards: 2 M.2 slots
Mid-range: 3-4 M.2 slots
High-end: 4-5 M.2 slots

Check the specs:

PCIe 3.0 vs 4.0 vs 5.0 support
Some slots might be limited to slower speeds
Using certain M.2 slots might disable some SATA ports (check manual)

PCIe Slots (for GPU and Expansion):

The long slots for your graphics card and other add-in cards.

Top slot: Usually PCIe 4.0 or 5.0 x16 (for GPU)
Lower slots: Usually PCIe 3.0 x4 or x1 (for WiFi cards, capture cards, etc.)

Most people only need: One x16 slot for GPU. Extra slots are nice for future expansion but not essential.

USB Ports:

Count them! You'll use more than you think.

On the back panel:

USB 2.0 (black): Slow, but fine for keyboard/mouse
USB 3.0 (blue): Faster, good for most peripherals
USB 3.1/3.2 Gen 2 (usually red or teal): Even faster
USB-C: Modern, versatile, becoming standard

Internal headers (connect to case front panel):

USB 3.0 header
USB-C header (if your case has front USB-C)

How many is enough?

Minimum 6-8 rear USB ports
At least one USB 3.0 internal header
USB-C header is nice if your case supports it

Networking:

Ethernet:

1 Gigabit (1000 Mbps): Standard, perfectly fine for most people
2.5 Gigabit: Nice upgrade, good for fast home networks
10 Gigabit: Overkill for home use

WiFi:

Some motherboards include WiFi, others don't
WiFi 6 (802.11ax) is current standard
WiFi 6E adds 6GHz band (newest, best)
Don't need WiFi? Save money on a non-WiFi board and use Ethernet

Bluetooth:

Usually included with WiFi
Bluetooth 5.0 or newer is standard
Useful for wireless keyboards, mice, headphones

Audio:

All motherboards have built-in audio. Quality varies:

Basic boards: Decent audio, fine for most users
Mid-range: Better audio chips, good headphone output
High-end: Premium audio, shielded from interference

Do you need better?

For most people: Built-in audio is totally fine
Audiophiles: Consider external DAC/amp instead of relying on motherboard quality
Gamers: Built-in audio works great with gaming headsets

VRM (Voltage Regulator Module):

This is the part that delivers clean, stable power to your CPU.

Why it matters:

Better VRM = more stable power
Important for high-end CPUs and overclocking
Poor VRM can throttle performance or cause crashes

How to tell if VRM is good:

More power phases (8+ for mid-range, 12+ for high-end)
VRM heatsinks (metal blocks covering the VRM)
Check reviews - they test VRM quality

Beginner's shortcut: Stick with reputable brands (ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte, ASRock) and you'll be fine. Don't buy the absolute cheapest board for a high-end CPU.

BIOS/UEFI:

The software built into the motherboard that lets you:

Change boot order
Overclock CPU and RAM
Enable XMP/EXPO (important for RAM speed!)
Update firmware
Adjust fan curves

User-friendly BIOS: ASUS and MSI generally have the easiest BIOS interfaces.

RGB Headers:

For connecting RGB fans and LED strips.

12V RGB: All LEDs same color (older standard)
5V ARGB (Addressable): Each LED individually controllable (modern, more flexible)

Only matters if: You want RGB lighting in your build.

Choosing a Motherboard: Practical Guide

Step 1: Match your CPU

Intel CPU → Intel motherboard (LGA 1700 for 12th/13th/14th gen)
AMD CPU → AMD motherboard (AM5 for Ryzen 7000, AM4 for Ryzen 5000)

Step 2: Choose chipset

Intel: B760 for most people, Z790 if overclocking
AMD: B650 for most people, X670 for enthusiasts

Step 3: Pick size

ATX for standard builds
Micro-ATX for compact or budget
Mini-ITX for tiny builds (advanced)

Step 4: Check features

Do you need WiFi? (or will you use Ethernet?)
Enough RAM slots? (4 is standard)
Enough M.2 slots? (2-3 is good)
Enough USB ports?

Step 5: Set budget

Budget: $100-150
Mid-range: $150-250 (sweet spot!)
High-end: $250-400
Extreme: $400+ (usually unnecessary)

Popular recommendations:

Budget ($100-150):

MSI B760M-A PRO (Intel)
ASRock B650M-HDV (AMD)

Mid-range ($150-250):

MSI B760 TOMAHAWK WiFi (Intel) - excellent all-rounder
MSI B650 TOMAHAWK WiFi (AMD) - our favorite for value
ASUS TUF Gaming B760-PLUS (Intel)

High-end ($250-400):

ASUS ROG Strix Z790-E (Intel)
ASUS TUF Gaming X670E-PLUS (AMD)

All these brands are reliable:

ASUS (premium features, good BIOS)
MSI (great value, reliable)
Gigabyte (competitive pricing)
ASRock (best budget options)

The Power Supply (PSU): Don't Cheap Out Here!

What It Does

The PSU (Power Supply Unit) converts the AC power from your wall outlet (120V in US, 240V in Europe) into the DC power your computer components need (3.3V, 5V, 12V).

Why the PSU is critical:

It powers literally everything
A good PSU protects your components
A bad PSU can destroy your entire computer
It affects system stability

This is NOT the place to save $20. A quality PSU is insurance for your $1000+ computer.

How Much Wattage Do You Need?

The simple method:

Add up your components' power draw
Add 20-30% headroom
That's your minimum PSU wattage

Quick estimate guide:

Budget build (no dedicated GPU or low-end GPU):

Components: ~250-350W
Recommended PSU: 450-550W

Mid-range gaming (RTX 4060, RX 7600 level):

Components: ~400-450W
Recommended PSU: 550-650W

High-end gaming (RTX 4070, RX 7800 XT level):

Components: ~500-600W
Recommended PSU: 750W

Enthusiast (RTX 4080, RX 7900 XT level):

Components: ~650-750W
Recommended PSU: 850W

Extreme (RTX 4090):

Components: ~850W
Recommended PSU: 1000W

Why the extra headroom?

Power spikes (GPU can briefly use more than rated)
Future upgrades (better GPU later)
Efficiency curve (PSUs are most efficient at 50-80% load)
Component aging (PSUs lose efficiency over time)
Peace of mind

Can you go too big? Technically no, but it's wasteful. A 1000W PSU for a system that uses 400W just costs more money. Stay within reasonable range.

Understanding 80 Plus Ratings

You'll see badges like "80 Plus Bronze" or "80 Plus Gold." This indicates efficiency.

What it means: How much power goes to your components vs. being wasted as heat.

The ratings:

80 Plus (White):

80% efficient at 20%, 50%, 100% load
Basic certification
More heat, higher electricity bills

80 Plus Bronze:

82-85% efficient
Budget-friendly
Good enough for most builds

80 Plus Silver:

85-88% efficient
Uncommon, usually not worth the premium over Bronze

80 Plus Gold:

87-90% efficient
Sweet spot for most builders
Lower heat, quieter fans
Saves money on electricity over time

80 Plus Platinum:

90-92% efficient
Premium pricing
Diminishing returns vs. Gold

80 Plus Titanium:

92-94% efficient
Extremely expensive
Only worth it for very high-wattage builds running 24/7

What should you get?

Budget builds: 80 Plus Bronze is fine
Most people: 80 Plus Gold (best value)
High-end builds: 80 Plus Gold or Platinum
Don't bother with: Titanium (too expensive for minimal benefit)

Why efficiency matters:

Example: 500W load on different PSUs:

80% efficient: Draws 625W from wall, wastes 125W as heat
90% efficient: Draws 556W from wall, wastes 56W as heat

Over a year of gaming, Gold vs Bronze can save $20-40 in electricity and generates less heat (quieter fans).

Modular vs. Non-Modular PSUs

Non-Modular:

All cables permanently attached
Pros: Cheapest
Cons: Cable clutter, can't remove unused cables
Best for: Extreme budget builds only

Semi-Modular:

Main cables (24-pin, CPU power) attached
Extra cables (GPU, SATA) detachable
Pros: Good compromise, reasonable price
Cons: Still some cables you can't remove
Best for: Most builds

Fully Modular:

All cables detachable
Pros: Cleanest cable management, easiest to work with
Cons: Most expensive
Best for: Premium builds, people who care about aesthetics

Recommendation: Semi-modular is the sweet spot. Fully modular is nice but not essential. Avoid non-modular unless extremely budget-constrained.

Safety Features: Very Important!

Quality PSUs include multiple protections. Always check for these:

OVP (Over Voltage Protection):

Shuts down if voltage spikes too high
Protects components from damage

UVP (Under Voltage Protection):

Shuts down if voltage drops too low
Prevents crashes and instability

OCP (Over Current Protection):

Limits current to safe levels
Prevents electrical fires

OPP (Over Power Protection):

Shuts down if total power exceeds rating
Prevents overload

SCP (Short Circuit Protection):

Immediately shuts down if short detected
Critical safety feature

OTP (Over Temperature Protection):

Shuts down if PSU gets too hot
Prevents thermal damage

Quality PSUs have ALL of these. Cheap PSUs might skip some. This is why brand reputation matters!

PSU Brands: Who to Trust

Tier 1 (Best - Buy with confidence):

Seasonic (many other brands use Seasonic internals)
Corsair RMx, RMi, HX, AX series
EVGA SuperNOVA G6, P6, T2 series
Super Flower Leadex series

Tier 2 (Good - Reliable options):

Corsair RM, CX series (newer models)
EVGA SuperNOVA GA, G3
Thermaltake Toughpower GF1
be quiet! Straight Power, Pure Power
MSI MPG A-GF

Tier 3 (Acceptable - Budget options):

Corsair CV series
EVGA W3 series
Thermaltake Smart series

AVOID:

No-name brands from Amazon/eBay
"Gaming" PSUs from unknown manufacturers
Anything without 80 Plus certification
PSUs that come free with cases
Used PSUs (can't verify condition/age)

Warning signs of bad PSUs:

Unusually cheap for the wattage
Outrageous claims ("2000W" for $40)
No brand markings or certifications
Suspiciously light weight (quality components have weight)
Reviews mentioning burning smells, failures, or dead components

Choosing Your PSU: Simple Guide

Step 1: Calculate wattage needed

Use PCPartPicker or add up component TDP
Add 20-30% headroom

Step 2: Choose efficiency

Budget: 80 Plus Bronze
Standard: 80 Plus Gold (recommended)
Premium: 80 Plus Platinum

Step 3: Choose modularity

Budget: Non-modular or semi-modular
Most people: Semi-modular
Premium builds: Fully modular

Step 4: Pick a trusted brand

Stick to Tier 1 or Tier 2 brands
Read recent reviews (PSU quality can change between product lines)

Step 5: Check features

All safety protections (OVP, OCP, OPP, SCP, OTP)
Warranty (5-10 years = good quality)
Cable length (modular PSUs let you replace cables if needed)

Popular recommendations:

Budget ($50-80, 550-650W):

Corsair CX650M (semi-modular, Bronze)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GA

Mid-range ($80-120, 650-750W):

Corsair RM750x (fully modular, Gold) - excellent choice!
MSI MPG A750GF (fully modular, Gold)

High-end ($120-160, 850W):

Corsair RM850x (fully modular, Gold)
Seasonic Focus GX-850

Extreme ($180+, 1000W+):

Corsair HX1000i (fully modular, Platinum)
Seasonic Prime TX-1000

Common PSU Questions

Q: Can I use a PSU from my old computer? A: If it's a quality brand and less than 5 years old, maybe. But PSUs degrade over time, and modern GPUs have higher power requirements. Generally safer to buy new.

Q: What's that switch on the back of the PSU? A: Voltage selector (115V vs 230V). Set it correctly for your country or you'll damage components! US = 115V, Europe = 230V. Many modern PSUs auto-detect.

Q: Why is my PSU fan not spinning? A: Many modern PSUs have "zero RPM mode" - the fan doesn't spin under low load to reduce noise. It'll spin when needed. This is normal!

Q: Do I need a UPS (battery backup)? A: Not required, but nice to have. Protects against power outages and surges. Especially useful if you live in an area with unstable power.

Q: Can I test my PSU before installing it? A: Yes, using the "paperclip test" (bridging pins 4 and 5 on the 24-pin connector). Google for instructions, but this only tests if it powers on, not quality/stability.

Q: How long do PSUs last? A: Quality PSUs last 7-10+ years. Capacitors degrade over time, so even if it still works, efficiency drops after ~5-7 years.

Summary: Motherboard and PSU

Motherboard key points:

Determines compatibility, not performance
Match to your CPU (Intel vs AMD, correct socket)
B-series chipsets are great value for most people
ATX for standard builds, Micro-ATX for budget/compact
Check for features you need (WiFi, M.2 slots, USB ports)
Budget $150-250 for most builds

PSU key points:

Never cheap out - it powers everything!
Calculate wattage: components + 20-30% headroom
80 Plus Gold is the sweet spot for efficiency
Stick to trusted brands (Corsair, EVGA, Seasonic)
All safety protections required (OVP, OCP, OPP, SCP, OTP)
Semi-modular or fully modular for easier cable management
Budget $80-150 for quality PSU

The foundations are set! With the right motherboard and PSU, your build will be stable, reliable, and ready for anything.

Continue to Part 5: Cases and Putting It All Together →

In our final part, we'll cover computer cases (airflow, size, features) and walk through how all these components actually come together to create your finished PC!

Part 5: Cases and Putting It All Together

[Previous: Part 4 - Motherboard and Power Supply]

The Computer Case: More Than Just a Box

At first glance, a computer case might seem like the least important part - just a metal or plastic box to hold everything, right? But the case you choose affects cooling, noise levels, ease of building, and how much you'll enjoy looking at your computer every day.

What a Case Actually Does

Primary functions:

Houses and protects all your components
Provides airflow to keep components cool
Organizes cables for cleaner builds and better airflow
Offers expansion room for future upgrades
Reduces noise (with sound dampening material)
Looks good on or under your desk

A good case makes building easier and keeps your components cooler and quieter. A bad case makes building frustrating and can cause overheating issues.

Case Sizes: Picking the Right Form Factor

Cases come in different sizes to match motherboard sizes (and accommodate different builds).

Full Tower:

Size: Huge (20-24" tall, 50+ lbs)
Motherboard: E-ATX, ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX
Pros: Fits everything, incredible airflow, tons of room
Cons: Takes up lots of space, heavy, expensive, overkill for most
Best for: Extreme builds, water cooling setups, multiple GPUs (rare now)

Mid Tower:

Size: Standard (18-20" tall, 20-30 lbs)
Motherboard: ATX, Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX
Pros: Great balance, good airflow, easier to move
Cons: Can be tight with large GPUs and coolers
Best for: Most people! This is the standard choice

Mini Tower / Micro-ATX:

Size: Compact (15-17" tall)
Motherboard: Micro-ATX, Mini-ITX
Pros: Smaller footprint, still reasonable to build in
Cons: Limited GPU length, can be cramped
Best for: Compact builds without going tiny

Small Form Factor (SFF) / Mini-ITX:

Size: Very small (10-14" tall, under 20 liters)
Motherboard: Mini-ITX only
Pros: Portable, great for LANs, space-saving
Cons: Challenging builds, expensive, limited cooling, picky about parts
Best for: Experienced builders who want portability

For beginners: Mid tower is the sweet spot. You get plenty of room to work, good airflow, and it fits on/under most desks.

Understanding Airflow: Keep It Cool

Good airflow prevents overheating and extends component lifespan. Here's what you need to know:

Basic airflow principle:

Cool air in from the front and bottom
Hot air out from the top and rear

This works with physics - hot air naturally rises, so exhaust at the top is ideal.

Fan configurations:

Positive pressure (more intake than exhaust):

Fresh air pushed in through filtered intakes
Excess air exits through unfiltered gaps
Pros: Less dust inside (air pushed through filters)
Cons: Slightly warmer components

Negative pressure (more exhaust than intake):

Air sucked out, pulls fresh air from all gaps
Pros: Can be 2-3°C cooler
Cons: Dust enters from unfiltered gaps

Balanced pressure (equal intake and exhaust):

Good compromise
Most common recommendation

Typical setup for mid tower:

Front: 2-3 fans intake (120mm or 140mm)
Rear: 1 fan exhaust (120mm)
Top: 1-2 fans exhaust (optional)
Bottom: 1 fan intake for GPU (optional)

Mesh vs. solid front panels:

This is a BIG difference!

Mesh front:

Better airflow (10-15°C cooler in some cases!)
More dust (even with filters)
Slightly louder
Best for: Performance, hot components

Solid/glass front:

Worse airflow (chokes intake)
Looks cleaner
Quieter
Best for: Low-power builds, aesthetics over performance

Real talk: If you have a mid-range or high-end GPU (RTX 4070+, RX 7800 XT+), get a mesh front. The temperature difference is significant.

Case Features: What to Look For

Cable Management:

Modern cases include:

Cable routing holes behind the motherboard
Velcro straps or tie-down points
PSU shroud to hide power supply and cables
2-4 inches of space behind motherboard tray

Good cable management:

Improves airflow
Makes builds look cleaner
Makes upgrades easier

Drive Bays:

Where you mount storage drives.

3.5" bays (for HDDs):

Older cases: 4-8 bays
Modern cases: 0-2 bays (or removable cages)
Many newer cases eliminate these for better airflow

2.5" bays (for SATA SSDs):

Usually 2-4 bays
Some cases mount these behind the motherboard tray

Do you need drive bays?

If using M.2 NVMe SSDs only: No!
If you have HDDs or SATA SSDs: Yes, check how many
Most modern builds: 1-2 drive bays is plenty

Front I/O Panel:

The ports on the front/top of your case:

Essential:

Power button
Reset button (or restart)
USB 3.0 ports (at least 2)
Headphone jack
Microphone jack

Nice to have:

USB-C port (increasingly common)
More USB ports (3-4 total is great)

Make sure your motherboard supports: USB-C header if your case has USB-C front port!

Expansion Slots:

The slots on the back where GPU and other cards poke through.

Budget cases: 7 slots
Standard: 7-8 slots
Large cases: 9+ slots

Why it matters: Modern GPUs take 2-3 slots of space. Make sure you have enough.

Dust Filters:

Removable filters that catch dust before it enters the case.

Where you want them:

Front intake (essential)
Bottom intake (if you have bottom fans)
Top (optional, mostly to keep dust out when PC is off)

Magnetic filters are easiest - they pop off for cleaning without tools.

Build Quality:

Materials:

Steel: Durable, heavy, can be sharp on cheap cases
Aluminum: Premium, lighter, more expensive
Plastic: Used for accents, avoid cases that are mostly plastic
Tempered glass: Heavy but beautiful, can shatter if dropped
Acrylic: Lighter than glass, scratches easily

Good signs:

Thick metal (doesn't flex when you press on panels)
Painted interior (looks cleaner)
Rubber grommets on cable routing holes
Thumb screws (tool-less design)

Bad signs:

Thin, flexible metal
Sharp edges
Painted exterior that chips easily
Requires tools for everything

Sound Dampening:

Some cases include foam padding to reduce noise.

Pros:

Quieter operation
Muffles fan noise and HDD sounds

Cons:

Slightly worse airflow
Adds weight
Adds cost

Worth it if: You value quiet computing. Not necessary if you wear headphones while gaming.

Clearances: Will Everything Fit?

Before buying a case, check these specs:

GPU Length:

Your GPU: Check specs (e.g., 320mm long)
Case maximum: Listed in specs (e.g., "supports up to 360mm GPU")
Leave some margin - if case says 360mm, a 355mm GPU is risky

CPU Cooler Height:

Tower coolers: 150-170mm tall typically
Case maximum: Usually 165-185mm
Not an issue with stock coolers or AIOs

PSU Length:

Standard: 140-160mm
Case spec: Usually supports 160-200mm
Rarely an issue unless you have a very long PSU

Radiator Support (if using AIO liquid cooling):

120mm: Single fan
240mm: Two fans (most common)
280mm: Two larger fans
360mm: Three fans

Check case supports your radiator size and where it can mount (front, top, rear).

Pro tip: Use PCPartPicker - it automatically checks compatibility and warns you about clearance issues!

Popular Case Recommendations

Budget ($50-80):

NZXT H510 Flow: Clean design, good airflow, easy to build in
Corsair 4000D Airflow: Excellent value, mesh front
Fractal Design Focus G: Simple, functional, affordable

Mid-range ($80-150):

Lian Li Lancool 216: Outstanding airflow, great features
Fractal Design Torrent Compact: Best-in-class cooling
be quiet! Pure Base 500DX: Quiet and cool
Corsair 4000D/5000D Airflow: Versatile, good build quality
NZXT H7 Flow: Modern design, easy building

Premium ($150-250):

Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO: Showcase design, water cooling ready
Fractal Design North: Beautiful wooden panels, great airflow
Corsair 5000D Airflow: Spacious, premium features
be quiet! Dark Base 700: Silent operation, modular design

Small Form Factor ($100-200+):

NZXT H1: All-in-one design with PSU and AIO
Cooler Master NR200P: Popular SFF choice
Lian Li A4-H2O: Tiny but supports AIO cooling

What to avoid:

Cases with solid front panels and no ventilation
Cases with only one fan mount
Cases so cheap the metal flexes
Cases with no cable management space

RGB and Aesthetics

RGB Lighting:

Many cases come with RGB fans or LED strips.

Types:

Pre-installed RGB fans: Case includes RGB fans
RGB controller included: Control lights without motherboard software
ARGB (addressable): Each LED controllable individually
Non-ARGB: All LEDs same color

Do you need RGB?

It's purely aesthetic - zero performance benefit
Adds $20-50 to case price
Can look amazing if you like it
Can be annoying if you don't (bright lights at night)
Most can be turned off if you don't want them

Window panels:

Tempered glass:

Clear view of components
Heavy
Can shatter if dropped
Fingerprint magnet
Premium look

Acrylic:

Clear view
Lighter than glass
Scratches easily
Budget option

Solid panel:

No view inside
Better sound dampening
Usually cheaper
Good if you don't care about aesthetics

Color options:

Most cases come in black or white. Some offer other colors.

Black:

Classic, hides dust better
Most common
Usually cheapest

White:

Modern, clean aesthetic
Shows dust more
Often $10-20 more expensive
Very popular right now

How Components Work Together

Now that we understand all the parts, let's see how they interact when your computer is running.

The Boot Process

What happens when you press the power button:

PSU provides power to motherboard
Motherboard powers up and runs POST (Power-On Self-Test)
CPU initializes and loads BIOS/UEFI from motherboard
RAM is tested for errors
Storage drives are detected
GPU initializes and displays boot screen
Bootloader loads from your SSD
Operating system starts (Windows, Linux, etc.)

All this happens in 10-30 seconds with an SSD!

During Gaming

Here's what each component does when you're playing a game:

CPU:

Handles game logic (where enemies are, what they're doing)
Processes physics (objects falling, explosions)
Manages AI (enemy behavior)
Coordinates with GPU

GPU:

Receives rendering instructions from CPU
Calculates what each pixel should show
Applies textures from VRAM
Handles lighting, shadows, effects
Sends finished frames to monitor (60-300+ per second)

RAM:

Holds game code and assets
Stores level data, textures waiting to be used
Holds audio files
Buffers data between CPU and storage

Storage:

Loads new level data as you progress
Streams textures and audio
Saves your game progress

Motherboard:

Routes all communication between components
Provides power distribution

PSU:

Supplies stable power to everything
Handles power spikes when GPU boosts

Case fans:

Exhaust hot air from GPU and CPU
Bring in cool air to replace it

All working together, thousands of times per second!

Understanding Bottlenecks

A bottleneck happens when one component limits overall performance.

CPU bottleneck:

CPU can't keep up with GPU
GPU sits at 50-70% usage waiting for CPU
Lower frame rates than GPU is capable of
Example: Budget CPU with high-end GPU

How to identify:

GPU usage under 90% in games
CPU at 100% usage

Solution:

Upgrade CPU
Lower CPU-intensive settings (physics, AI count)
Accept lower frame rates

GPU bottleneck:

GPU can't keep up with CPU
GPU at 95-100% usage, working as hard as it can
CPU sitting at 30-50% usage
Example: High-end CPU with budget GPU

How to identify:

GPU usage at 95-100%
CPU usage well below 100%

Solution:

Upgrade GPU
Lower resolution or graphics settings
This is actually the ideal bottleneck - you want GPU working hard!

RAM bottleneck:

Not enough RAM for what you're doing
System stutters or freezes
High disk usage (system using storage as "fake RAM")

How to identify:

RAM usage at 90%+ constantly
Game stuttering
"Out of memory" errors

Solution:

Add more RAM
Close background programs

Storage bottleneck:

Slow loading times
Stuttering in open-world games
Long boot times

How to identify:

Long load screens
HDD at 100% usage
Textures loading slowly ("pop-in")

Solution:

Upgrade to SSD
Move games to faster drive

The ideal system: Components are balanced so nothing holds anything else back dramatically.

Building Your First PC: Overview

We have full step-by-step build guides elsewhere, but here's the general process:

Preparation (Before You Start)

Gather tools:

Phillips screwdriver (magnetic tip helpful)
Zip ties or velcro straps
Thermal paste (usually included with cooler)
Good lighting
Clear workspace

Watch a build video on YouTube - seeing the process helps tremendously!

Read your motherboard manual - it's your best friend during the build.

Build Order (Simplified)

1. Install I/O shield (metal backplate) into case

2. Install motherboard standoffs (little posts that keep motherboard from touching case)

3. Test fit motherboard - make sure all holes line up

4. Install CPU on motherboard (OUTSIDE the case - easier)

Open CPU socket
Align CPU carefully (never force it!)
Close socket lever

5. Install RAM (also outside case)

Open clips on slots 2 and 4 (check manual)
Align notch on RAM with slot
Press down firmly until clips snap

6. Install M.2 SSD (if you have one)

Remove screw from M.2 slot
Insert SSD at angle
Press down and screw in

7. Install CPU cooler

Apply thermal paste (rice grain size in center) if needed
Mount cooler according to instructions
Connect fan cable to CPU_FAN header

8. Install motherboard in case

Lower gently onto standoffs
Screw in (don't overtighten!)

9. Install power supply

Usually goes at bottom, fan facing down
Screw in from outside of case

10. Connect power cables

24-pin to motherboard
8-pin CPU power
Don't connect GPU power yet

11. Install GPU (LAST!)

Remove slot covers
Align with top PCIe slot
Press down firmly until clip clicks
Screw to case
Connect PCIe power cables

12. Connect case cables

Front panel connectors (power button, LEDs)
USB headers
Audio header
Use your motherboard manual diagram!

13. Cable management

Route cables behind motherboard tray
Zip tie bundles together
Keep cables away from fans

14. Double-check everything

All power cables connected
RAM fully seated
GPU fully inserted
Cooler fan connected

First Boot

1. Connect monitor to GPU (not motherboard!)

2. Plug in power cable to PSU

3. Flip PSU switch to ON ("|" position)

4. Press power button

If it works:

Fans spin
Lights come on
Monitor displays BIOS screen
Success!

If it doesn't work:

Check PSU switch
Check all power cables fully seated
Reseat RAM (try one stick in slot 2)
Check front panel power button connected correctly

5. Enter BIOS (press Delete, F2, or F12 during boot)

6. Enable XMP/EXPO for RAM (important!)

7. Check all components detected

CPU shown
RAM showing correct amount
M.2 SSD detected

8. Save and exit BIOS

9. Install operating system from USB drive

Common First-Time Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)

1. Forgetting I/O shield

Install it FIRST, before motherboard
Super annoying to remove motherboard to add it later

2. Not enabling XMP/EXPO

Your RAM runs at slow speed by default!
Enable in BIOS to get rated speed

3. Plugging monitor into motherboard

Use GPU ports if you have a graphics card
Motherboard ports often don't work with GPU installed

4. Using only one RAM stick

Always use two sticks for dual-channel
2x8GB is much better than 1x16GB

5. Front panel connectors wrong

These tiny connectors are fiddly
Use motherboard manual diagram
Take a photo of the manual page on your phone

6. Forgetting motherboard standoffs

Motherboard will short circuit against case
Can destroy motherboard!
Check case - some have standoffs pre-installed

7. CPU cooler not tightened

Needs firm, even pressure
Tighten in X-pattern gradually
Don't overtighten (can crack motherboard)

8. Thermal paste errors

Too much: Messy, can be bad for cooling
Too little: Poor heat transfer
Just right: Pea-sized dot in center
Don't spread it - cooler pressure does that

9. Static electricity

Touch case metal frequently to discharge
Build on non-carpeted surface if possible
Anti-static wrist strap is optional but safe

10. Cable management paralysis

Don't stress about perfection on first build
Just keep cables away from fans
You can always tidy up later

Optimization After Building

Once your PC is built and running:

1. Update all drivers

GPU drivers from NVIDIA or AMD website
Motherboard chipset drivers
Network drivers
Check Windows Update

2. Update BIOS (optional but recommended)

Download from motherboard manufacturer
Follow instructions carefully
Improves stability and compatibility

3. Monitor temperatures

Download HWiNFO64 or HWMonitor
CPU idle: 30-45°C is normal
CPU gaming: 60-80°C is fine
GPU gaming: 65-85°C is fine
Over 90°C: Check cooler installation

4. Run stress tests

Prime95 for CPU (10-15 minutes)
FurMark or 3DMark for GPU
Ensures stability under load

5. Optimize Windows

Disable startup programs you don't need
Enable Game Mode (for gaming)
Set power plan to "High Performance" or "Balanced"
Disable Xbox Game Bar if you don't use it

6. Organize your storage

OS and programs on SSD
Games on SSD (faster loading)
Media and backups on HDD (if you have one)

7. Set up backups

External drive for important files
Windows File History or third-party backup software
Cloud storage for critical documents

Troubleshooting Common Issues

PC won't turn on at all:

PSU switch on?
Power cable plugged in fully?
Try different wall outlet
Check 24-pin and 8-pin CPU power fully seated
Motherboard power button (tiny button on board itself) works? Might be case power button issue

Fans spin but no display:

Monitor plugged into GPU (not motherboard)?
GPU power cables connected?
RAM fully seated? Try one stick in slot 2
Try different display cable or input on monitor
Clear CMOS (check motherboard manual)

PC boots but crashes in Windows:

Check temperatures (might be overheating)
Run RAM test (MemTest86)
Update all drivers
Check XMP/EXPO - try disabling if unstable
Reseat GPU

Games run poorly:

Check GPU drivers updated
Make sure games using GPU (not integrated graphics)
Monitor temperatures (thermal throttling?)
Check GPU power cables fully connected
Verify game settings appropriate for your GPU

PC is loud:

Check fan curves in BIOS (might be too aggressive)
Clean dust filters
Verify all fans are properly mounted
Check GPU isn't hitting temperature limits (making fans run at 100%)
Consider better CPU cooler or case fans

Random freezes or blue screens:

Run RAM test
Check temperatures
Update BIOS and drivers
Disable XMP temporarily to test
Check Windows Event Viewer for error codes

Maintenance Tips

Every 3-6 months:

Clean dust from filters
Blow out dust from inside case (compressed air)
Check all fans spinning properly
Update GPU drivers

Every 1-2 years:

Replace CPU thermal paste
Deep clean case interior
Check for BIOS updates

Every 3-5 years:

Consider CPU/GPU upgrade
Check PSU still working efficiently
Evaluate adding more RAM or storage

Upgrade Paths

Your first upgrade should probably be:

If gaming performance isn't enough:

GPU upgrade (biggest FPS impact)

If multitasking is slow:

Add more RAM (cheap and effective)

If load times annoy you:

Add SSD or faster SSD

If everything is slow:

CPU upgrade (might need new motherboard too)

Easy upgrades (no rebuild needed):

Adding RAM (buy matching kit)
Adding storage (extra SSD or HDD)
GPU upgrade (just swap out old one)
Case fans (better cooling or quieter)

Moderate upgrades:

CPU (same socket, just swap)
CPU cooler (better temps or quieter)
PSU (if current one underpowered)

Major upgrades (basically new build):

CPU + Motherboard + RAM together (new platform)
Moving to smaller case (requires rebuild)

Final Thoughts: You've Got This!

Congratulations! You now understand:

What every component does and how it works
How to choose parts for your needs and budget
Why certain specs matter and others don't
How components interact in a working system
The build process at a high level
Common mistakes to avoid
How to maintain and upgrade your PC

Remember:

Start with a balanced build for your budget
Don't overspend on components you don't need
Never cheap out on the PSU
Good airflow matters more than RGB
It's okay to ask for help - the community is friendly!
Building gets easier each time

Your knowledge journey:

✅ You started here: "What's a CPU?"
✅ You are now here: Understanding all components and their interactions
Next step: Building your first PC or upgrading confidently
Future: Helping others learn what you now know!

Quick Decision Matrix

For gaming at 1080p:

CPU: Intel i5 or AMD Ryzen 5
GPU: RTX 4060 or RX 7600
RAM: 16GB DDR4-3200 or DDR5-5600
Storage: 500GB-1TB NVMe SSD
PSU: 550-650W Gold
Budget: $800-1200

For gaming at 1440p:

CPU: Intel i5/i7 or AMD Ryzen 5/7
GPU: RX 7800 XT or RTX 4070
RAM: 16-32GB DDR5-6000
Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD
PSU: 750W Gold
Budget: $1200-1800

For content creation:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7/9 or Intel i7/i9 (more cores!)
GPU: RTX 4060 Ti 16GB or better (CUDA helps)
RAM: 32-64GB
Storage: 1TB+ NVMe + HDD for projects
PSU: 750W+ Gold
Budget: $1500-2500

For basic use/office:

CPU: Intel i3 or AMD Ryzen 3 (or with integrated graphics)
GPU: Integrated graphics (save the money!)
RAM: 16GB
Storage: 500GB SSD
PSU: 450-550W
Budget: $400-600

Resources for Your Journey

Planning your build:

PCPartPicker.com - Check compatibility and prices
/r/buildapc - Reddit community for advice
YouTube - JayzTwoCents, Linus Tech Tips, Gamers Nexus

Buying components:

Amazon, Newegg, B&H Photo
Micro Center (if you have one locally)
Manufacturer websites for deals

Learning more:

Gamers Nexus - Deep technical reviews
Hardware Unboxed - GPU and monitor reviews
Optimum Tech - Small form factor builds
Paul's Hardware - Build guides

Getting help:

/r/buildapc Discord
Tom's Hardware forums
LinusTechTips forums
Your build questions are never stupid!

The End... And The Beginning

You've completed this deep dive into computer components! What seemed like a mysterious black box is now a collection of parts you understand.

The best part? This knowledge stays with you. Whether you're:

Building your first gaming PC
Upgrading an old computer
Helping a friend choose parts
Understanding what you're buying
Troubleshooting issues
Making informed decisions

You now have the foundation to do all of this confidently.

Welcome to the PC building community. You're going to love the computer you build!

This concludes our 5-part series on Understanding Computer Components!

Part 1: CPU and RAM Part 2: Storage (SSDs and HDDs) Part 3: Graphics Cards Part 4: Motherboard and Power Supply Part 5: Cases and Putting It All Together (this page)

Related guides you might enjoy:

Building Your First PC: Complete Step-by-Step Guide
Cable Management Tips for Clean Builds
Overclocking Basics: Should You Do It?
Troubleshooting PC Problems: A Beginner's Guide
RGB Setup Guide: Making Your Build Glow